PARIS — Jonathan Anderson presented his first womenswear ready-to-wear collection as creative director of Christian Dior on Friday, opening Paris Fashion Week with a highly anticipated debut for the Spring/Summer 2027 season. The show drew a star-studded front row to the French capital.

Anderson left Loewe and closed his own JW Anderson label to take sole creative control of Dior, making him the most closely watched appointment in luxury fashion. His arrival follows Maria Grazia Chiuri's departure and marks the first time a single designer has overseen Dior's men's, women's and couture lines simultaneously.

The Paris schedule, released by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, runs through October 6 and features houses including Chanel, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga and Hermès. The season follows Milan Fashion Week, where Demna presented his first Gucci collection and the industry paid tribute to the late Giorgio Armani.

LVMH, Dior's parent company, has positioned Anderson's tenure as central to reviving momentum at a house facing softer luxury demand. Analysts at Bernstein and HSBC have flagged the debut as a bellwether for the group's fashion and leather goods division heading into 2027.

Vanessa Friedman, fashion director of The New York Times, called Anderson's Dior debut "the single most important debut of the year" after previewing the season's key shows.